The monumental Hôtel de Ville looks like a fortified castle with its sturdy 15th-century fortifications – it's a symbol of La Rochelle's independent spirit. Inside you'll find a friendlier, 19th-century interior. Intriguing attractions for a rainy day include the Musée des Automates, home to some 300 automated figures. The Musée d'Histoire Naturelle is one of the oldest natural history museums in France and the Musée du Nouveau Monde decorative art museum is set in an 18th-century mansion.

With its four ports, La Rochelle feeds off the sea for inspiration, food and leisure. Head to the Port des Minimes, Europe's largest Atlantic-facing port, which hosts the massive Grand Pavois boat show every year. The Vieux Port delights, always lively with its many brasseries and restaurants. For more ocean-themed outings, pay France 1 a visit, the ship which brought France its weather reports before the satellite era, at the Musée Maritime. Or take the kids to France's most popular Aquarium for a thrilling tête à tête with piranhas and other sea creatures. When the sun shines, take a tour on the sea by boat or windsurf, or improve your skills at La Rochelle Sailing Centre.

The Saint Nicolas neighbourhood feels like a village; everyone knows everyone else, so you can look on as the butcher waves at a lady heading into one of the numerous interior design boutiques. There are also scores of second-hand clothing stores, old books and antiques dealers as well as a flea market on Saturdays. But the area really comes into its own after dark, when music and people spill out onto the cobbled streets in front of the neighbourhood's many cool bars.

Seaside cities needed protection in the past; take in La Rochelle's fortified towers and fight off the mighty (imaginary) pirates. Start with the Tour de la Chaîne, named after a gigantic chain which can still be seen at the tower's base. The Saint Nicolas Tower symbolises the wealth and military power of the city. Its architecture is a maze of steps and corridors built into the depths of its walls. Topped by an octagonal Gothic spire, the Tour de la Lanterne, also called the Four Sergeants, served as a lighthouse and a prison. Look out for the graffiti scrawled over the tower's walls left behind by the Dutch, Spanish and British corsairs imprisoned here.

More information: +33 (0) 5 46 41 74 13

National Monuments of France website

La Rochelle's Tourist Office website

Take a boat towards the tiny island of d'Aix, where cars are banned, and wander around the island where Napoleon spent his last days on French soil. Or cross the toll bridge to chic Ile de Ré for peaceful sea views and narrow white-washed streets. The 100km of cycle paths will take you through woods, salt marshes, sandy beaches and Saint Martin port. Head south to Rochefort to see the refurbished Hermione (to be completed in 2012) - the French frigate that left for America in the 18th century to help the fight for independence. Then there's Le Marais Poitevin (Poitou Marshes), known as the Green Venice, which you can cross on a boat.

We happened to be in La Rochelle for the Film Festival last summer. The whole city comes alive and the vibe is very relaxed. We caught an Armenian film, a real gem. Michelle and Stephen Green, London

Fixed price lunch menu at Richard et Christopher Coutanceau, overlooking the beach and port, in a Michelin two star restaurant, for under 60 euros. Theo Mance

Where: Plage de la Concurrence, 17000 La Rochelle, +33 (0)5 46 41 48 19

Plage de la Concurrence website