Feel yourself transported back in time while listening to Edith Piaf, Charles Aznavour and Jacques Brel chansons sung by live entertainers over an apéritif at La Petite Cave. Immerse yourself in an evening of nostalgia and dinner in this crowded cellar bar in Vieux Lille.

Where: 80 rue St-André, Lille, +33 (0) 3 20 06 60 66

La Petite Cave website

Sink into this Art Deco, Michelin-starred restaurant near Lille Cathedral for an evening of gourmet seafood in opulent surroundings – look out for the beautiful mosaic. Every fish dish is superb, and you get to pick your own lobster from the tank. It's also pretty popular so expect to book, and dress up for the occasion. There's a delicatessen here too.

Where: 3 rue des Chats Bossus, Lille (Metro: Rihour), +33 (0) 3 20 55 43 41

L'Huîtrière website

Open: Mon-Sat lunch and dinner; Sun lunch only. Closed August.

Cost: €28 starter; €36 main; lunch menu €45

Browse for antique tables, candelabras and mirrors while sitting on an old armchair and chatting with friends. Try to resist buying one of the secondhand lamps while you sip coffee, or relax reading one of the old novels. After a heavy Saturday night, come here to refuel on the Sunday English brunch in what feels like your granny's front room.

Where: 13 rue Masurel, Lille, +33 (0) 3 28 360 592

Open: Tue-Sat 12-6.30pm; Sun 11.30am-6pm Oct-Apr. Closed Mon.

Roam the enclosures of snow panthers and rhinos right in the middle of the city. Laugh at the naughty Capuchin monkeys on Monkey Island, as the huge pelicans swim around them. More than 300 species live in this little zoo – and it's free to enter. On a sunny afternoon, head here with a picnic while the kids run around watching their furry (or scaly) friends at play.

Where: Avenue Mathias Delobel, Bois de Boulogne, Lille (Metro: République Beaux-Arts), +33 (0) 3 28 52 07 00

Lille Zoo website

Open: Daily

Cost: Free

Forget the diet – these sweet eats are so beautiful it would be rude not to stop for tea and cake in the oldest patisserie in France. Passers-by have given in to the sugary sweet smells since 1871. Even King Léopold I couldn't resist the vanilla-centred gaufre (waffle). Enjoy coffee with friends in the bright, smart tearoom or buy a little cadeau of chocolate or speculoos (Flemish gingerbread biscuit) for those unfortunate souls still at home.

Where: 27 rue Esquermoise, Lille (Metro: Rihour), +33 (0) 3 20 57 07 44

Méert website

Open: Tue-Sun.

After a great Saturday night out, we went to Wazemmes market where the traders were setting up for the Sunday market and grabbed a coffee at Les Tilleuls. Tom R, London

If you're looking for something other than Flemish food, I recommend Le Sesame, a Tunisian place in Wazemmes, which serves a mean tagine and couscous. The owner, Madame Kaddeche, has been there for about 25 years apparently. Open: Tue-Sun lunch and dinner. Closed Mon. €5 starter; €11 main. John Perry, Folkestone

Where: Le Sesame, 377 rue Leon Gambetta. +33 (0) 3 20 54 32 59. Metro: Gambetta

We thought the trams were a great way to see Lille and nearby Roubaix and Tourcoing. The trip to Roubaix is great, as the tram takes you past rows of pristine Art Deco houses. Jo, Derby

Since we're nuts about sightseeing, we bought a City Pass from the tourist office for perks like free admission to the Palais des Beaux Arts, La Piscine in Roubaix plus around 20 other places and visits AND free public transport travel. A two-day pass cost €30 euros and so it was well worth buying and going out to Roubaix. Next time I'd save time and buy the pass online at www.lilletourism.com. Chris Lyons, Sydney

I love the smell of cheese shops ­– I can close my eyes and know I'm in France. Philippe Olivier in rue du Curé St-Etienne (+33 (0) 3 20 74 96 99, Rihour metro) is one of the best I know and sells the Vieux Lille stinky cheese. But don't pack it in your suitcase on a warm day like I did! Be warned, it's closed Sun and Mon. Stella Moore, Deal