Your typical Gentenaar is a jovial one; there's nothing he'd rather do than savour a Duvel beer in the shadow of Sint Niklaas Church, or by one of Ghent's breezy canals. And, if there is free music to enhance the experience, so much the better. The Gentse Feesten in July are just that: ten days of cheerful street partying to keep you out of trouble. Those in the know will watch out for the three festivals within the festival: clubby 10 Days Off, the Puppetbusker and the Street Theatre Festival. The Gent Jazz Festival (formerly Blue Note) now runs separately and ends on the first weekend of the Gentse Feesten.

Ghent Festivities website

To get a feel for the proud Ghent of medieval times, start at the Belfort (Belfry), and go right to the top! Absorb the Gothic grandeur of the Graslei quay along the banks of the Leie River. The Spijker is the street's oldest house, where grain reserves were stored in the 12th century to alleviate future famines. The Gildenhuis van de Vrije Schipper (Guildhall of the Free Boatmen) and the Lakenhalle (Cloth Hall) have gorgeous late-Gothic façades. Finish your tour at Sint Michiels church just across the bridge, but make some time for Sint Baafs and Sint Niklaas too.

The precise origins of Waterzooi are hotly contested throughout Belgium, but Ghent emerges as the winner. Dating from the Middle Ages, it's a soupy stew crammed full of veggies, potatoes and super-fresh fish. Chicken is also commonly used and makes for a hearty winter repast. Sugar cravings? Then head straight for Ghent's many snoepwinkels (sweet shops). With sweet names like Neuzen (noses), Poepkes (little buttocks) and the heavenly Nonnenbillen (nuns' thighs), you're guaranteed to get a rush and the giggles.

OK, so we know it's medieval, but Ghent is also avant garde. Since 1982, the Vooruit arts centre has hosted contemporary and cross-bred performing arts and music right in the heart of the student quarter. Sit in on one of their weekly civic debates to find out what really makes Gentenaars tick.

Where: Vooruit, Sint-Pietersnieuwstraat 23, 9000 Ghent, +32 (0) 9 267 28 20

Vooruit website

… is the Flemish drinking sound and you'll be hearing lots of it. With its pedestrian cobblestone alleys, Ghent is dotted with cosy bierhuizen. Head to the traditional Waterhuis aan de Bierkant, home to an impressive 100 types of beer. Move on to the Dreupelkot, a popular Jenever (local gin) bar on the Groentenmarkt. First concocted as a medicine, you may want to start off with the sweet, home-made Vanilla Jenever, but do come back to sample the other 199 flavours!

The Patershol has become Ghent's culinary heart in the past few years. It's the perfect place to sample Belgian cuisine; for me, a fresh sole filet with lemon and grey shrimp sauce and a side order of endives does it every time! Oh, and all washed down with a glass of white beer, of course. Caroline Anders, Glasgow

The Castle of the Counts in Ghent is a bit like the Tower of London, minus the hoards of tourists. It went from being a count's residence to a cotton-spinning mill, with myriad other uses in between. The lively history kept us very busy, and the kids enthralled. Lisa and Rodney Gregory, Leeds

The S.M.A.K. in Ghent is an accessible, user-friendly contemporary arts museum. Across the street is the Museum of Fine Arts, so we gave it a full day to take in all the treasures these two institutions have to offer. Al Rothwell, London